Le Bec Fin

One is seated in an oval-backed armchair superbly cushioned on bottom and arms by the same Cherbourg tapestry used to cover the most expensive French luggage. On starched-shirt pink tablecloths rest grand heavy silverware, a heart-shaped crystal ashtray, quail salt and pepper shakers and an unglazed chard filled with varieties of orchids and wildflowers.

The soup of the day on my day is mushroom. Honey-colored broth is as clear as a belle époque in which swirling morsels and shitake mushrooms carouse. The teeniest of round scallion slivers are strewn about, afloat upon the surface. As one brings a soupspoonful to mouth, the aroma of the fungi tickles the nose until a sneeze is possible. One swallows before the urge becomes a certainty. The soup is clean and hot. Dampness engorges the upper palate while a sensible tongue splashes in happiness. Tastes of the earthiness of far-away wood predominate.

The salad is the shape of a huge lobster. Avocado strips form outer body -- cherry tomatoes and marinated shrimp are the head; smoked salmon slivers upon dark, light and radiccio lettuces for the tail. Consummately healthy fare.

Entrees feature grilled fish seasoned in herbs. Avocado, passion fruit, basis, sherberts and special soufflés will be presented as their ingredients become most available and fresh. Attention is being placed upon the finest ingredients at their peak

If possible, also seek out roast beef or veal en croute. The roast is maroon upon dark sauce as if embarrassed that the latter covers nothing of the former. The side of a fork pressed so slightly into the pinkest portion causes a separation agreement.

Chocolate Cake Le Bec Fin is a double-chocolate with mocha, 14 inches high and topped with rich deep chocolate flakes. A raspberry tart is low, eight inches wide, glazed to sparkle. California long-stem strawberries surround white chocolate mousse. The fluff melts in milliseconds.

This repast, with finest wines, may cost in excess of one hundred dollars an hour. You may want to sign your American Express voucher "Edmund Dantes."